18 Innovative Bedroom Dividers

6. IKEA Hack: How to Turn Your IVAR Cupboard into a Stunning Room Divider!

Start by collecting all the wooden panels and substructure battens you’ll need. For the panels, you’re looking at specific sizes, ranging from a couple of 317 x 864 x 18mm pieces to an 846 x 1116 x 18mm piece, plus a few more.

As for the battens, measure the floor-to-ceiling height right where you want your room divider to dazzle. Check the height in multiple spots to ensure a perfect fit for your 14 individual battens, and don’t forget an 1152mm long batten, too!

1. Mark those drilling points carefully on components A, B, C, D, E, and F. Remember, components E and F need a bit of special attention. E requires length-specific adjustments, and F will need 12 drill holes.
2. Grab your sandpaper and get all those wood pieces silky smooth!
3. Whether you’re into painting, oiling, or staining, now’s the time to add some flair to your wood.
4.  Follow the guide and screw those first wooden panels together. The 317 x 864 x 18mm panels are your go-to for the outer parts. Ensure one plate is recessed by 18mm underneath.
5. With your base standing tall, slide in the back panel and secure it snugly.
6. Now, prepare the compartment dividers. Secure the 298 x 828 x 18mm plate to the two 298 x 292 x 18mm plates, ensuring everything lines up perfectly.
7. It’s time to attach your newly assembled dividers to the main structure.
8. Gently guide your IVAR cupboard into its new home. If it’s a tight squeeze, loosen some screws and tighten them back up once IVAR is settled in.
9. Ceiling and Privacy, Here We Come!: Attach the short batten to the ceiling using 60mm screws. Transfer the slat distances from your room divider to the ceiling battens, drill the holes, and insert the dowels and screws. Align the body with the ceiling batten, attach the outer slats first (they’re the ones closer to the edge), and then secure the remaining slats, maintaining a 52mm distance between each.

5. A DIY: Deluxe Room Divider Extravaganza

Today, you’re transforming your spacious bedroom into a luxurious suite with a room divider that screams sophistication. Imagine a top shelf where your most prized possessions get the spotlight and shelves that are just begging for your favorite books and midnight snacks. And let’s not forget the coat rack at the back, ready to cradle your bathrobe and outfits. Get ready to create your masterpiece with this step-by-step guide!

What You Need:

Swing by Karwei store or Lowes for all your materials to create a room divider measuring 223.6×26.8×156.7 cm. Bonus: they’ll cut your wood to size so you can skip the sawing hassle!

Materials Checklist:

• 2 sheets of 18mm plywood for the back wall (122×220 cm, 32.9×220 cm), side walls (2x 26.8×156.7 cm), top plate (26.8×220 cm), a shelf (25×220 cm), and two bonus shelves (2x 20×30 cm)
• 1 sheet of 12 mm plywood for a swanky coat rack (6×223.6 cm)
• 7x 18 mm round wood pieces, each 6 cm long
• A handful of screws (3.5 x 40 mm), primer, lacquer paint, putty, and warehouse corners

Tools of the Trade:

– Saw, hand planer, sandpaper, and a roller/brush for that perfect finish

How to Create Your Room Divider Masterpiece:

1. Cut or have your sheet material cut to the right size.
2. Plane off those sharp edges with your hand planer, making everything smooth.
3. Sand down the sides of your cut material because we’re all about the details.
4. Prime everything with a colored primer and wait for it to dry. Patience is key!
5. Give everything a light sanding, and then bring on the color with your lacquer paint (but leave the outside of the back wall be; it has its own plans).
6. Attach the side walls to the back walls with your trusty screws.
7. Slide in the shelf between the side walls, right at the seam of the back walls.
8. Place the top plate between the side walls and on top of the back plate. This is coming together!
9. Evenly distribute the 7-round sticks along the 6×223.6 cm strip and attach them from the back.
10. Secure the newly created coat rack over the seam of the back walls because details matter.
11. Decide where those shelves should live and attach them via the side walls and back wall.
12. Fill in the screw holes and give them time to dry. Almost there!
13. Sand down the filled-in holes for a seamless look.
14. Paint the outside of the bed frame to match your stylish creation.
15. Finally, attach the bed frame to the floor with magazine hooks strategically placed under the bed, so they’re out of sight.

4. A KALLAX Room Divider: A Step-by-Step Guide

Imagine transforming your space with a stylish room divider that not only separates areas but also makes a bold statement. With a KALLAX unit from IKEA and some creative hacking, you’re on your way to achieving just that.

Here’s how to make it happen:

Step 1: Sketch Your Vision

Before diving in, plan out your project on paper. Visualize how the KALLAX unit will fit into your space and decide on the additional materials you’ll need.

Step 2: Build the Base

• Material Needed: Hot Rolled Steel Tube
• Tools Needed: Welding equipment
• Instructions: In your workshop, where your custom steel furniture comes to life, cut and weld the steel tube to create a sturdy lower base for your room divider.

Step 3: Add the Finish

• Location: Local PowderCoating Factory
• Finish: Gloss White
• Instructions: Take your steel base to a PowderCoating Factory to apply a glossy white finish. This will ensure your base matches the sleek appearance of the IKEA KALLAX unit.

Step 4: Assemble the First Section

• What You’ll Need: The KALLAX unit and your glossy base
• Instructions: Place the KALLAX unit on top of your newly finished base. Admire the first section of your room divider, standing bold and new in your living space.

Step 5: Complete the Middle Support

• Task: PowderCoat the remaining middle support section
• Purpose: Creating room for artistic display
• Instructions: Apply the glossy finish to the middle support section, ensuring it’s ready to hold a wire sculpture or any other art piece you wish to display.

Step 6: Enjoy the Impact

Now, take a step back and enjoy your new room divider’s powerful impact on your space. Whether in a vintage building from 1884 or a modern loft, your KALLAX room divider will turn heads and start conversations.

3. A DIY Cozy Corner Hack: Your Guide to a Dual-Purpose Living Space

So you and your beloved are about to embark on the incredible journey of parenthood, and in the heart of New York City, no less! Your one-bedroom apartment is cozy, but you’re brainstorming ways to carve out a little nursery nook in your living room without sacrificing style or space. Don’t worry, you’ve got this!

Imagine transforming a bright corner of your living space into a sanctuary for your little one, all while keeping it chic and adult-friendly on the other side. Sounds like a dream? Well, grab three Billy bookshelves from IKEA and some sturdy metal braces from your local hardware store, and let’s make it happen!

These bookshelves are about to work double duty for you. Not only will they house your cherished book collection, but they’ll also serve as a stylish and functional room divider. Assemble the shelves, secure them with the metal braces, and voila – you’ve created a cozy, private space for your baby to dream sweetly, all while maintaining an attractive, adult-friendly area on the other side.

Now, step back and admire your handiwork. Your living room has transformed! On one side, a tranquil nursery nook filled with soft blankets and adorable baby essentials. On the other, it is a sophisticated space for you and your spouse, with your beloved books artfully displayed.

You’ve successfully crafted a living space that’s both baby-friendly and adult-approved. So here’s to you, soon-to-be parents, making the most out of your New York City living space and creating a cozy corner perfect for your growing family. Cheers to new beginnings and smart, stylish solutions!

2. Divide and Conquer: Creating a Chic Workspace with Parisian Flair

This time, you’re about to embark on a transformative journey with graphic designer Amal Iqbal as she turns her wide-open space into a work-from-home haven, all while keeping things chic and Parisian-inspired. So, grab your sketchpad, and let’s dive in!

1. Find Your Inspiration and Sketch Away: Remember those dreamy Parisian interiors and loft vibes. Got it? Great! Now, envision two 8-foot multi-pane partitions to create your studio area. You’re not just creating a workspace; you’re crafting a piece of art!

2. Choose Your Materials Wisely: Go for lightweight 1×2” pine boards and acrylic sheets for the window frames. You don’t want to upset your landlord, do you? Secure everything with screws, and remember, it’s all about making it stable yet easily disassembled for future moves or repurposing.

3. Mind the Gap: Stop your partitions 1 foot short of the ceiling to dodge that pesky concrete beam and let the air flow freely. Add some luxurious (but budget-friendly) linen curtains from IKEA to make it all feel intentional and upscale.

4. Hide the Clutter: Use quarter-inch MDF and picture molding on both sides of your partitions. Paint everything in a warm white, like Harvest Moon from Backdrop, to blend seamlessly with your walls. Voilà, your clutter is out of sight, and your space is as chic as ever!

5. Secure the Acrylic: Pinch those acrylic sheets in place between wood dowels. Opt for ½” square wood dowel rods, securing them with a nail gun. Pro tip: Next time, try quarter-round dowels for an even softer look.

6. Rethink Your Layout: Move your desk to the side and marvel at how it transforms from dining table vibes to a legitimate workspace. Embrace the power of orientation and let your brain enjoy the newfound order.

1. DIY: Bed Back Partition With Cupboard

A back wall for the bed does not necessarily have to be against the wall; you can also use it multifunctionally as a dividing wall in the room. Behind it you have room for a walk-in closet or extra storage space. Two birds with one stone!

Good to know

You need this

For the Finnish Underlayment of 18 mm:

• Front and back panel: 2x 120×180 cm
• Top panel: 1x 56.4×180 cm
• Bottom panel: 1x 56.4×176.4 cm
• Side panel: 2x 56.4×118.2 cm
• Intermediate panel: 1x 56.4×114.6 cm
• Shelf: 2x 56.4×115.8 cm
• Shelf supports: 4x 56.4×4.5 cm
• Slats for behind the doors 1x 58.8 x 10 cm, 1x 58.8 x 8.2 cm, 1x 115.4 x 10 cm, 1x 115.4 x 8.2 cm

For the rod support: 2x7x7 cm + other:

• 1x rod: wooden stick Ø 32 mm, length 58.8 cm
• 6x cross hinges 20 cm
• 3x magnetic closure
• 3x suitcase handle Britt 69 mm (Karwei)
• 1-liter color primer (Farrow & Ball)
• 1-liter topcoat color Skylight No 205 (Farrow & Ball)\
• Sandpaper
• Roller
• Brush
• Gasoline
• Putty
• 56x screws 3.5 x 40 mm
• 42x screws 4 x 16 mm
• 30x screws 4 x 30 mm
• 12x screws 3 x 16 mm

This is how you make the bed’s back wall

1. Cut the sheet material to size; see above for all dimensions.
2. Take the front panel and draw the doors on it.
3. Around 10 cm, the 3 doors are all the same size, and the two intermediate styles are also 10 cm. The dimensions of the doors are 46.7×100 cm.
4. Cut the doors from the front panel with a ruler saw.
   If you do not have this, you can also do this by using a straight slat, which you secure to the wood with 2 clamps and saw along it with a hand-held circular saw. At the front, you saw all the way to the corners of the marked door. But because your saw blade is of course round, the saw at the back does not cut away the last centimeters. Cut out the last part of the doors (the corners) with a jigsaw. Please note that you number the doors so that you later put them back in the place where you saw them out so that the wood structure continues nicely when the doors are replaced. So you have to remember the number which is the left, middle and right door. And bottom and top.
5. Remove the hair edges from the sheet material with a plane.
6. Sanding sheet material.
7. Now we will start assembling the furniture: attach the top panel to the 2 side panels. You place the top panel on the side panels, with screws 3.5 x 40 mm.
8. Create the center panel on the top panel with a gap of 20 inches (58.8 cm) from the left side. With screws 3.5 x 40 mm.
9. Attach the bottom panel between the side panels.
   And against the intermediate panel. This leaves 18 mm of space at the bottom of the cabinet. The base plate is, therefore, not completely on the floor. You do this because if you place the cabinet on the floor and your floor is not completely level, your cabinet is more likely to wobble. The space under the bottom panel absorbs this and ensures that your cabinet is stable with screws 3.5 x 40 mm.
10. Now, attach the back panel to the other panels, with screws 3.5 x 40 mm.
11. Now attach the front panel with the cutouts of the doors to the other panels, with screws 3.5 x 40 mm.
12. Take the 8.2 cm slats and place them behind the recesses of the doors in the cabinet at the bottom and screw them to the front panel from the inside. Take the 10 cm slats and do the same at the top.
13. Screws 4 x 30 mm. You place these slats so that your doors will swing against them and your door will not fall in completely. And you can also attach your magnetic closure to the top slat.
14. Install the shelf supports in the cupboard behind the location of the middle and right doors.
    You attach them to the inside of the side panel and the right inside of the intermediate panel. We have opted for an equal division of 3 compartments here, but you can of course adjust that to your liking. With screws 4 x 30 mm.
15. Now, we are going to make the rod supports.
    We have chosen to make it from the same material so that the entire inside has the same look. To do this, take the 7 x 7 cm cubes. Determine at what height you want to lower the rod into the support and drill it out with a 32 mm speed drill. And use a jigsaw to saw off the last bit upwards so that you have a recess with a curve at the bottom, into which you can later drop the rod.
16. Install the rod supports behind the left door in the middle of the depth of the cabinet and 4 cm from the top. With screws 4 x 30 mm.

Fill screw holes.

• Completely light sanding + cross hinges and case handles.
• Degreasing.
• Prime the furniture + the doors, hinges, and suitcase handles.
• Lightly sand and wipe.
• Paint in desired color + doors, hinges, and suitcase handles.
• Attach cross hinges to doors. Heart cross hinges 12 cm from top and bottom. Screws 4 x 16 mm.
• Place the doors in the recesses of the front panel. Use 3 mm shims for this. Your saw is 3 mm, so you have a 3 mm seam around the door. Screws 4 x 16 mm.
• Attach the suitcase handles to the door at the desired height with the supplied screws.
• Place the magnetic closure inside the door and in the cupboard. Screws 3 x 16 mm.
• Place the 2 shelves in the cupboard.